“There are lots of different kinds of refried beans throughout El Salvador, but in some mountain towns, you’ll get these amazing, really dense beans,” says chef Anthony Salguero of Popoca in Oakland. “My cousin calls them triple-fried, but it’s more like a thousand times fried. You just keep adding fat until the beans are thick enough to stand up on a plate, which is very common as part of a Salvadoran breakfast, with tortillas, eggs, fried plantains, avocado, and queso. They’re often made with lard, but I make mine with olive oil. It’s a little healthier, plus I’m cooking in California, so I try to be respectful of vegetarians who come in.” Serve these very rich beans in modest dollops with sour cream and avocado for scooping up with thick Salvadoran-style corn tortillas.