Meat

The taste was a marvel. The ham and cheese pack a savory punch; the fig jam (you should use a lot of it) underscores and offsets their saltiness, and the tender, rich biscuit enfolds them all.

What meatloaf is to Americans, pâté de campagne—a sublime mixture of pork and bacon—is to the French. The two merged during, of all things, a trip to a Dallas beauty parlor, and the result is one unforgettable recipe.

Wine and dried fruit bring a sweet richness to this humble cut of meat.