Fans of matzo ball soup are often divided: some love “floaters” (light, fluffy matzo balls); others prefer “sinkers,” a denser style of dumplings. When Molly Baz developed this version, she tested hydration, fats, and multiple cooking methods to land on our ideal. The result is No-Nonsense Matzo Balls: tender, reliably light dumplings with no leavener, seltzer, or other gimmicks required.
Cooking the balls in well-seasoned, gently simmering water—not directly in the soup and not at a rolling boil—ensures they soak in plenty of flavor without clouding the broth. And about that broth: roasting chicken wings adds caramelized depth, while lightly poaching seasoned chicken legs gives tender meat without overcooking. For a leaner stock, chill it overnight, then skim off the schmaltz (use it to make the matzo balls!) before reheating.
This matzo ball soup recipe serves eight generously (two balls each) but can easily stretch to 16 smaller appetizer portions. It’s also organized so you can make the broth and matzo balls at the same time, or prep either portion a couple of days ahead.
Tips for the best matzo ball soup
Why cook matzo balls in water instead of the soup? Simmering the matzo balls in salted water seasons them evenly while keeping the final broth clear. Reheat made-in-advance matzo balls directly in the soup.
How much salt should I use? You’ll add a small amount of salt directly to the matzo ball dough, but the bulk will go into the cooking liquid. Think pasta water: salty enough to flavor the dumplings. Underseasoned water will pull flavor out of the dumplings.
Why chill the matzo mixture? Resting the matzo ball dough for at least 35 minutes gives the matzo meal time to hydrate, producing light, tender balls. The mixture may feel loose at first, but it will firm up in the fridge.
Can I substitute schmaltz? Yes. Duck fat and goose fat are easy substitutes, but you can also use neutral or light olive oil if you need a meat-free option. Or, go big and beefy by swapping in tallow (best if you’re making soup with beef broth). Rendering your own schmaltz from chicken skin or scraping it from the top of chilled broth is a money saver, but store-bought schmaltz works just fine.
Can I use store-bought stock? The most flavorful broth comes from roasting the wings, deglazing the pan, and simmering with lots of aromatics. But if you’re in a time crunch, you can skip that step and use your favorite low-sodium chicken broth.
Recipe information
Total Time
2½ hours
Yield
8 servings
Ingredients
Matzo Dough
6
½
6
3
1½
¾
1½
Soup and Assembly
4
1½
6
2
2
1
3
1
1
Need to make a substitution?
Preparation
Matzo Dough
Step 1
Whisk 6 large eggs in a medium bowl until no streaks remain. Add ½ cup melted schmaltz (chicken fat) or vegetable oil, 6 Tbsp. low-sodium chicken broth or water, 3 Tbsp. chopped fresh dill, 1½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ¾ tsp. Morton kosher salt, and ¾ tsp. freshly ground black pepper and whisk vigorously to combine. Add 1½ cups matzo meal and whisk until incorporated. Cover and chill matzo ball mixture at least 35 minutes (this is essential as it gives the matzo meal time to hydrate).
Do Ahead: Matzo dough can be made 2 days ahead. Keep refrigerated.
Soup and assembly
Step 2
While the matzo ball mixture is chilling, place a rack in top third of oven; preheat to 450°. Place 4 chicken legs (thigh and drumstick; about 3 lb.) on a rimmed baking sheet or a large plate and sprinkle with 1½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or 1 tsp. Morton kosher salt; let sit at room temperature until ready to use. Spread 6 lb. chicken wings out on another rimmed baking sheet; roast wings until golden brown, 45–55 minutes.
Step 3
Transfer wings and any accumulated juices on baking sheet to a large pot. Add 2 medium onions, peeled, halved, 2 celery stalks, cut into 2" pieces, 1 medium parsnip, peeled, cut into 2" pieces, 1 medium carrot, peeled, cut into 2" pieces, 1 bunch fresh parsley, 1 Tbsp. black peppercorns, and 4 quarts water. Bring to a simmer and cook, adjusting heat as needed to maintain simmer, until stock is slightly reduced, 40–50 minutes. Add seasoned chicken legs and simmer until legs are very tender, another 40–50 minutes.
Step 4
While the chicken legs cook, bring 3 quarts water to a boil in a medium pot. Add 3 Tbsp. Diamond Crystal or 1 Tbsp. plus 2¼ tsp. Morton kosher salt. Using damp hands, divide matzo dough into 16 pieces and roll each into about 1½"-diameter ball. It’s okay to really work the dough into balls; it won’t get dense—trust us, we tried! Using a slotted spoon, carefully lower matzo balls into the gently simmering salted water. Reduce heat to low, cover pot, and cook, checking occasionally and adjusting heat if boiling too rapidly, until balls are puffed and light in color, 30–40 minutes. Don’t remove them sooner than this; they will be dense in the middle if undercooked. Remove from heat and let sit while you finish the soup.
Step 5
Transfer chicken legs to a plate and let sit until cool enough to handle.
Step 6
Meanwhile, strain stock through a fine-mesh sieve into a medium pot; discard solids.
Step 7
Remove meat from legs; discard skin and bones. Tear meat into bite-size pieces and return shredded chicken to stock. Add remaining 2 medium carrots, peeled, thinly sliced. Return stock to a simmer and cook until carrots are just tender, about 4 minutes. Taste and season soup with more salt if needed.
Step 8
Using a slotted spoon, place 2 matzo balls in each bowl. Ladle soup over. Garnish with chopped fresh dill and a few grinds of freshly ground pepper.
Do Ahead: Matzo balls can be cooked 2 days ahead. Transfer to an airtight container along with 2–3 Tbsp. cooking liquid and refrigerate. When reheating, gently lower balls into soup and cook over medium-low until warmed through, about 10 minutes. Chicken stock can be made 3 days ahead; transfer to an airtight container and refrigerate. Store chicken leg meat separately.
Editor’s note: This matzo ball soup recipe was first printed in April 2019; it has been updated for style. Head this way for more of our favorite Passover foods →