Matzo Brei

For those who celebrate Passover, debates about the “correct” way to cook matzo brei are akin to those surrounding the best matzo ball soup: everyone has an opinion. Sweet finishes, like maple syrup or cinnamon sugar, are paramount for some. Others say savory matzo brei is the only way to go, with salt and black pepper in the egg mixture (instead of sugar) and topped with onions sautéd in chicken fat or sour cream, lox, and chives—a riff on the brunch staple, the LEO.

Shape is also up for debate: Should the matzo mixture be scrambled in the pan free-form, or look more like a tidy omelet or pancakes? Our matzo brei recipe takes its cues from the savory version (but there’s still jam!) and falls squarely in the pancake camp. If you’ve never made this Jewish breakfast, think of it as kosher for Passover French toast. The keys here lie in the Goldilocks hot water soak (too long, and the matzo will turn to mush, not long enough, and it’s still a shingle) and in using a good amount of seasoning. On its own, matzo is bland, so it needs some help.

A nonstick skillet will come in handy to cook the beaten-egg-drenched matzo pieces. Feel free to swap out half the cooking oil for unsalted butter if you’re using it, but don’t leave the oil out entirely. Oil is the best medium for creating those coveted crispy edges, no matter which way you swing, flavor-wise. The finishings are all you—jam, apple sauce, sour cream, even salsa. We’re not here to pick sides.