“Relajo is the foundation of so many Salvadoran dishes, but the spice mix varies depending on the dish or the cook,” says chef Anthony Salguero of Popoca in Oakland. “There are certain consistent elements—bay leaves, achiote, chiles, cumin seeds, sesame seeds, pumpkin seeds—and then more idiosyncratic additions like peanuts. It hits my palate like a Mexican mole and adds complexity to even simple dishes like this quick sautéed shrimp.” Toasting and grinding the spices in this warming blend unlocks all of their flavor. This recipe yields a lot, but you won’t have any trouble finding other uses for it: When you’re sweating aromatics for a braise, stir in a couple spoonfuls of relajo, turn it into a rub for grilled meats, or add a few big pinches to freshly fried potatoes.