Fans who grew up eating matzo ball soup have firmly set opinions. Some love “floaters” or light, fluffy matzo balls; others prefer “sinkers,” a denser style of dumplings. This version meets the two camps in the middle, with matzo balls that are rich and flavorful (thanks to the addition of schmaltz, a.k.a. rendered chicken fat) and tender and light (thanks to a generous amount of beaten eggs and ample time left to hydrate). It’ll win you over too, especially if it’s your first time making the comfort food classic some lovingly call “Jewish penicillin.”
Cooking the matzo balls in salted, gently boiling water (not in the soup!) seasons them throughout and ensures the chicken soup broth remains beautifully clear. And about that broth: Skip the whole chicken. Instead, reach for robustly flavored chicken legs and collagen-rich chicken wings. Before boiling them, you’ll roast the wings to bring in those caramelized flavors and give the homemade chicken stock a lip-smacking quality. The just-seasoned legs go in halfway through to poach until their meat is tender without becoming overcooked. If you prefer a leaner broth, make the soup a day ahead, chill overnight, then skim the schmaltz from the chilled surface before reheating.
This recipe serves eight people generously (with two balls each) but could easily stretch to serve 16 smaller appetizer-size portions. We ordered the steps so you could make the broth and matzo balls simultaneously, but if you prefer to break up the work, you can cook the matzo balls a couple of days ahead.