For the holidays, Meherwan Irani, chef at Chai Pani in Asheville, NC, makes this pork roast."I grew up in India, so my first experience with American holiday traditions was with my wife’s family. They’re Jewish, but they do Christmas bigger, badder, and louder than most, not to mention their over-the-top Thanksgiving feasts. Turkey’s hard to cook and always dry, so I’m always thinking, what can I do that’s as centerpiece worthy? I do crown roast with black peppercorn, fennel seed, and cumin. It’s not that I’m trying to Indian-ize it; my spice pantry is just four times larger than other people’s.” You may think that there’s a lot of salt in this recipe, but the roast needs it. The spice mixture is acting as a dry brine, delivering seasoning to deep within the big cut of meat.