Salt Cod Brandade

This brandade recipe is excellent for feeding a crowd, and because you can prep it ahead, it makes a stellar holiday appetizer. Called brandade de morue in Provence, the cheesy, garlicky French mashed potato dip uses inexpensive dried salt cod—and it might even convert the “I don’t like fishy-fish” crew.

If you’ve never worked with salt cod, consider this your encouragement. Jacques Pépin’s technique makes it easy: Instead of the usual overnight soak, the fillets are soaked for just a few hours, then blanched twice to remove excess salt and revive the flesh so that it flakes easily. You’ll simmer the fish with a little garlic in warm milk and then purée the lot with boiled potatoes for heft and a combination of cayenne and lemon zest for dynamic flavor. Transferred to a baking dish, the brandade gets a sprinkling of Parmesan and is flashed under the broiler until it’s golden brown. Serve with crostini and a glass of Champagne or vermouth on the rocks.