Shrimp With Feta and Tomatoes

This recipe is a riff on the Greek classic shrimp saganaki, adapted from Do-Ahead Dining by Malabar Hornblower. It features shrimp folded into a fresh tomato sauce brightened with white wine, then topped with feta and broiled for a bold finish. The unexpected additions of Dijon mustard, sugar, and lemon juice highlight the sweetness of the tomatoes—no matter how imperfect your market haul may be. (Author Adrienne Brodeur, Hornblower’s daughter, writes about how she used the dish to test a date’s compatibility in this essay.) Hornblower’s 1986 cookbook was ahead of its time in featuring dishes that could come together in just minutes of active kitchen time.