Spinach With Garlic and Crème Fraîche

Classic creamed spinach contains masses of both cream and spinach, reduced down to a pasty green (though admittedly delicious) gunge. This version takes a much lighter tack, wilting fresh, mature spinach into silky tenderness in just seconds, then folding in crème fraîche for brighter, more balanced richness. Inspired by the writer Julia Langbein’s trips to the greenmarkets of France where she first tasted this phenomenal combination, it is simply silky, creamy spinach heaven. Crème fraîche is cultured heavy cream that starts out the texture of extra-dense whipped cream but turns fluid when heated; instead you could use heavy cream and a squeeze of lemon for a similar effect.