Shawarma-ish Short Rib Kebabs

Not actually rib meat but close enough physically (it comes from the neighboring chuck or shoulder section) to masquerade as such, boneless short ribs can be treated like steak—cooked hot and fast to the doneness of your choice. A garlic-infused yogurt sauce pulls double duty here, serving as both a bright condiment to spread over your bread and as a tenderizing marinade once mixed with warming spices and a squirt of tomato paste. Consider the accompaniments mere suggestions. Use some, none, or all of them—choose a large square of lavash instead of pita, or add pickled onions and a swipe of harissa for some kick.