Bucatini all’Amatriciana

When acclaimed Italian chef Carlo Cracco divulged he uses garlic in his amatriciana sauce on a talk show in Rome in 2015, it made national news. The admission even invited the wrath of Piergiuseppe Monteforte, mayor of Amatrice in northern Lazio, where the pasta dish purportedly originated. Like others in its class (namely carbonara, cacio e pepe, and pasta alla gricia), amatriciana is a point of heated debate; depending on which source you trust, the only acceptable additions to the tomato-based sauce are guanciale (salt-cured pork jowl or cheek) and Pecorino Romano cheese. But, there are cooks in Italy—and abroad—who add black pepper, crushed red pepper flakes, white wine, onions, and, yes, even garlic, to the approval of some and the utter dismay of others.

This amatriciana recipe takes a few liberties, but we think they’re worthwhile: Since guanciale is not always easy to find stateside, pancetta and unsmoked bacon will do just fine. And while we’re partial to a long noodle, like spaghetti or bucatini, rigatoni works if you prefer a shorter pasta. Using whole canned tomatoes in the pasta sauce, however? That’s nonnegotiable.