Rich in history and folklore, Hoppin’ John is an essential part of New Year’s Day celebrations in the American South, particularly in Black communities; it’s believed to bring those who eat it good luck in the year ahead.
According to Toni Tipton-Martin’s Jubilee: Recipes from Two Centuries of African American Cooking, the custom of serving Hoppin’ John recipes on New Year’s is rooted in “Freedom’s Eve,” December 31, 1862, “when the enslaved gathered in churches to await the news that the Emancipation Proclamation had set them free.” In the South Carolina Lowcountry and other Southern locales, the celebratory meal often includes a side dish of braised collard greens.
There are several theories about the origin of the dish’s name. Chef and activist Millie Peartree explains that some say it “comes from children ‘hoppin’ ’ around the dinner table; another story tells of a man named John who came ‘a-hoppin’ ’ when his wife took the dish from the stove.” Others believe the name stems from a Gullah version of the French “pois à pigeons,” a variety of dried pea.
Recipes for Hoppin’ John can vary significantly. Some call for cowpeas (a type of field pea) to be cooked with a ham hock (or smoked turkey) and Carolina Gold rice together in a single pot. Peartree prefers to simmer black-eyed peas on a stovetop, pile the tender peas atop separately cooked rice, and garnish with a shower of sliced green onions.
What you’ll need
Dutch Oven
$133 $80 At Amazon
Slotted Spoon
$11 At Amazon
Mesh Sieve
$13 At Amazon
Chef's Knife
$34.53 At Amazon
Cutting Board
$10 At IKEA
Recipe information
Total Time
1 hour 50 minutes (plus overnight soak)
Yield
4–6 servings
Ingredients
2
1
1
½
1
2
1¼
1
2
1
4
½
Need to make a substitution?
Preparation
Step 1
IF USING HAM HOCK: Heat 2 Tbsp. vegetable oil in a medium Dutch oven or other heavy pot over medium-high.
IF USING BACON: Cook 8 oz. slab bacon, cut into ¼" pieces, in a medium Dutch oven or other heavy pot over medium-low, stirring occasionally, until bacon is crispy, 8–10 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer bacon to a paper towel–lined plate. Carefully pour out all but 2 Tbsp. fat from pot.
Step 2
Add 1 small onion, finely chopped, ½ green bell pepper, finely chopped, and 1 celery stalk, finely chopped, to pot and cook, stirring occasionally, until beginning to brown, about 5 minutes. Add 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped and cook, stirring often, until fragrant, about 1 minute.
Step 3
Add 1¼ cups dried black-eyed peas, soaked overnight, drained, 1 Tbsp. Cajun seasoning, 2 tsp. dried thyme, 1 bay leaf, and 1 smoked ham hock (if using), then pour in 4 cups low-sodium chicken broth or water. Bring to a rolling boil, then reduce to low heat and cover pot. Simmer until peas are tender but not mushy, 1–1½ hours.
Step 4
Drain pea mixture in a fine-mesh sieve; discard cooking liquid and bay leaf. Return pea mixture to pot, add ½ tsp. freshly ground black pepper.
Step 5
IF USING HAM HOCK: Remove ham hock from pot and let cool slightly. Pull meat from bone and return to pot; discard bone.
IF USING BACON: Return bacon to pot and stir to combine.
Step 6
Taste and season with kosher salt. Divide cooked long-grain rice (such as Carolina) among bowls and top with a ladleful of peas. Scatter thinly sliced scallions over.
Editor’s note: This Hoppin’ John recipe was first printed in December 2021. Head this way for our favorite buttermilk cornbread, biscuits and gravy, fried green tomatoes, and more of our best Southern recipes →