Meat-Lovers’ Miki Noodles

Chef Sheldon Simeon says this is the recipe that reminds him most of his late mother, Juanita Janet “Joanne” Moreno Simeon. A hearty chicken noodle soup colored with red annatto seed, miki was a homey staple from the Ilocos region of the Philippines that she usually cooked for Sheldon and his brother when they were under the weather. Even though the dish had noodles already in there, the boys would eat it with bowls of rice, just to soak up every last drop. Simeon still refers to miki as his ultimate “death row meal.”

This is the deluxe version with smoked ham hock and a little bit of fresh shrimp. The hocks add a porky oomph to the soup, and you can use the shredded meat to garnish the noodles. What sets miki apart is that the noodles are often cooked in the broth until they’re soft and supple, which makes them give off their starch and thicken the luscious broth. What you end up with is a lot like chicken and dumplings. For this purpose, fresh noodles can’t be beat. Making your own miki noodles at home sounds intimidating, but for these very simple egg noodles, it’s incredibly straightforward: All you need are just a few ingredients and a rolling pin. The lye water helps to give the noodles a springy texture. Don’t worry about making your noodles look picture-perfect—rustic strands are part of the charm.

This recipe is part of Make Your Own Noodles. Check out all of the recipes—plus expert tips, handy guides, and more.