Vietnamese Turmeric Fish Summer Rolls

"Time-honored recipes are important both for passing down history within families and introducing the culture to those outside it. And while for many people that might mean that traditional recipes should never be changed, I would argue that food is always evolving," writes recipe developer and food stylist Tyna Hoang. "The key questions are who is making those changes and whether they honor the spirit of the tradition. It's crucial that the history of the dish is referenced, respected, and not discarded. My family's recipes are dear to me, and I aspire to share Vietnamese cuisine with a wider audience and to broaden and deepen the understanding of what Vietnamese food is and can be. More often than not, some indigenous ingredients are inaccessible, so I've learned to adapt and use elements that are available. These acculturations are part of what makes me the Vietnamese-American I am. This particular recipe is my homage to Hanoi's classic Chả Cá Lã Vọng, a dish of fried fish seasoned with turmeric, shrimp paste, and dill that's served over vermicelli with lots of herbs and nước chấm, a staple fish sauce dressing. My simplified version is married with the summer roll for a quick and refreshing nod to an otherwise perfect traditional recipe. In Vietnam, summer roll dishes are usually served deconstructed with platters of crisp greens, herbs, and accoutrements so guests can assemble their own rolls (post COVID-19, of course). Preparing and eating a traditional meal is like sampling an important part of history, and I'm just as excited to participate in its evolution so that there are new stories to look forward to and share."