“When it comes to beef salad, there is no other way but spicy,” says chef Chutatip “Nok” Suntaranon of Kalaya restaurant in Philadelphia. Bursting with sliced aromatics like chiles, garlic, and lemongrass, it’s as spicy as it is bright, with handfuls of herbs and plenty of lime juice. The salad’s adaptability has made it a mainstay in her life, as well as on the menu at Kalaya. In this version, she swaps the Thai eggplant she uses in the restaurant for tomatoes. But, she advises, “You can throw in any vegetable you have, as long as you have the main ingredients: the beef and all the herbs.” The toasted rice powder is key for adding texture and a hint of smokiness. Toasting your own (preferably using sweet rice, but any white rice will work) is the way to go.