Margherita Pizza Beans

You may already know and love Deb Perelman’s infamous Pizza Beans, which have a jammy, brick-red sauce with a marinara pizza vibe. This recipe gives pizza beans the Margherita treatment, swapping a cooked-down sauce for fresh tomatoes cooked just enough to bring out their full flavor. You can use pristine specimens or damaged goods alike: blistering small tomatoes brings out their sweetness, while simmering large, grated tomatoes is an easy way to remove their tough skins and (flavorless) excess moisture. —Ali Slagle